The Island of Nisyros: another post in our series about the South Aegean.

Due to high winds and choppy seas, we spent an extra day on Kos. The next morning, our captain Tayfun decided we should leave at 5:30 AM to get to Nisyros ahead of the next expected windstorm. So, we set out before dawn in our pajamas and arrived in an empty harbor.

Since we’d reached the harbor town of Mandraki before any of the ferries, we got to explore the local archeology museum at our leisure [highlight: ancient griffins!], before driving up to see the volcano.

The volcanic crater at the center of Nisyros smells so hideously of sulfur, we were very lucky it was a windy day. Steam vents sent forth sulfurous fumes, leaving bright yellow crystals on the stone walls. Under our feet, we could hear water boiling.

I’d prepared for the volcano tour by doing a little research in advance, but our guide Heinrich told me that many of the things I learned from my Eyewitness Guide were completely wrong. One of the factoids I read about Nisyros actually confused the island’s history with that of Santorini. Moral of the story: it pays to travel with an archeologist.

After visiting the volcano, we drove up into the mountains to the village of Emporios. The population of Emporios is approximately 27, but it’s by no means without amenities. We enjoyed a delicious meal in a restaurant that looked over the terraced farmland and the crater. There was slow-roasted goat, zucchini fritters, falafel, olives, and lots of wine.

We probably should have saved something for the local kitties.